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When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.